The Pearl of the Adriatic.  And a pearl it is.  Christer asked what country I wanted to visit to celebrate my 40th birthday. The answer was easy: CROATIA!  Flights were made, rooms were booked and tours were reserved. Touch down in Croatia revealed bright blue skies, crystal clear water and 90 degree temperatures. Paradise. Particularly when coming from the cold and spitting skies of Germany. Yes, Croatia is all that one expects.....and more.

For this trip, we decided to forgo the usual hotel or resort and opt for a 'Sobe', which is an apartment for rent. With much research, it seemed the overall winner was Villa Ragusa. However, they were fully booked. Drat!  Fortunate for us, Villa Ragusa made a recommendation to stay at a Sobe directly across from their location, at Apartmani Raic (www.dubrovnik-area.com/Eng/vlasnik.asp?vla=679).  We made the booking and it proved to be a good move. Apartmani Raic is located in the Old Town of Dubrovnik (great location), is very affordable (90 euro), and is super clean and convenient. We had a double room, private bath and a kitchen.  A mother and two daughter run Apartmani Raic and have painstakingly rebuilt the apartment which was largely damaged during the war, keeping only the original woodbeams and stonework.  

Knowing that we wanted to take a few day trips from Croatia to neighboring countries, Bosnia and Montenegro, we took Rick Steves' suggestion and booked Pepo Klaic (http://trip.pondi.hr).  Booking him took our trip from great to excellent.  Not only did Pepo take us to the usually touristic sites, but also took us to off-the-beaten path places - which ended up being the highlights of our trip.  Pepo is the same age we are and served during the war (1991). Hearing his stories, his experiences and the challenges he and his fellow soldiers endured is both heartbreaking and inspiring. When someone can be so open about such difficult tiimes, you instantly feel connected. With Pepo, we started out hiring him as a tour guide and we ended up becoming good friends. He is a kind, warm-hearted man and if you EVER get the chance to visit Croatia, Bosnia and/or Montenegro, be sure to book Pepo. You'll be grateful you did.

And restaurants....there are two places that stick out in our minds for food.  One: Konoba Vinica, which was recommended to us by Pepo (and the three of us enjoyed some grilled swordfish together). www.konobavinica.com  Everything they make is homemade, country-style. They grown their own veggies, make their own and cook their fish/meats in a wood-oven. Then you enjoy your large plates alongside a flowing river. Nice!  The second place: Restaurant Rozarij (no website, but they are on Prijeko 2 in Old Town Dubrovnik).  Great Dalmatian style seafood (try the mussels or octopus salad..DIVINE!!) at decent prices and in a quiet corner of the town. Make reservations, as they book up fast (TEL: 321-257).

 

We spent a few days walking around Old Town Dubrovnik, walking the Town Walls (a mile and quarter long) with its breathtaking views, strolling the Stradun (main street) and enjoying the flocks of tourists (in which we were two). One day, we took a ferry to the neighboring island of Locrum. Locrum is a lush green island with few tourists and plenty of rocks to sun yourself on, while ogling and drooling over the passing (or parked) yachts.  Laying out here for the day, we lounged on not-so-forgiving rocks, swam in the Adriatic (clear and ohhh so refreshing on such hot days) and just did nothing.  On our way back to the ferry, we crossed a family of peacocks, which was kinda cool.  Can't say I remember ever seeing a peacock that didn't have a broadcasting systems initials sprawled across it.

On our return home from Bosnia, Pepo took us to the Croatian village of Ston, which is known for its mussels and oysters. This place was SO pretty. The water was clear, you could see island after island, small boats anchored mid-sea and hundreds of markers where they are growing oysters and mussels. It was pretty cool. And yup, the seafood is just as delicious as the scenery is stunning.

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