More than any other city we visited, Mostar revealed the most post-war scarring. While most of Dubrovnik has been restored and now glistens with beauty, Mostar is both partially restored and horrofically disfigured. As  mentioned in the Rick Steves' book on Croatia & Slovenia "Mostar provides an unpleasant but essential reminder of how real and how destructive war truly is". And this is exactly what goes through your mind while walking the streets of Mostar.

There is a strong Muslim culture in Mostar, with minarets reaching high into the skies, the call of prayer echoing throughout the city.   Near the mosques, sit churches. Some for Orthodox, some for Catholics. Mostar was and still is a blend of cultures: mainly Bosniak Muslims, some Catholic Croats and few Orthodox Serbs. It was this blend of cultures that stirred such a bloody battle in the 90's. 

Today, Mostar is an interesting place. Between the mixture of cultures and architecture, the mountains, the snaking Neretva River and its seafoam blue color, you can't help but be taken in by the city.  But a few more steps and another quick look around, one is soon reminded of the tragedy having taken place here. And you return to reality, confused as to whether you feel pleasure at the beauty of your surroundings or the sadness of the hell that once existed under your feet.

 

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