REIMS & EPERNAY, FRANCE
APRIL 2007



This weekend, Christer and I decided to make the 2 1/2 hour drive to the Champagne region of France...specifically to Epernay and Reims. Epernay houses many of the Champagne giants: Moet & Chandon (maker of Dom Perignon), Roederer (maker of Kristall), Mercier and Nicolas Feuillatte, to name a few. Our visit to Epernay was a half-day and the only Champagne tour we took was with Moet & Chandon. Reims is a neighboring city that is full of shops, restaurants and a beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral (resembling that in Paris). Reims is home to multiple Champagne makers: Piper-Heidsieck, Pommery, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Taittinger and Mumm, to mention a few. We were in Reims for a day and a half, and visited the cellars of Piper-Heidsieck, Taittinger and Pommery. Drank LOTS of Champagne and learned a ton.

Champagne originates from the small village of Epernay, where back in the mid-late 1600's, the famed Benedictine Monk, Dom Perignon worked as a cellar master.  Despite popular belief, Dom Perignon did not create sparkling wine nor did he create Champagne. What he did do was create was the process of blending grapes before they were sent off to the presses. He also avoided what was known as refermenation...or the second phase of fermentation.  This was when bottles would increase in gases and likely explode the bottle.  Back in the 1600's, 60% of the Champagne bottled exploded during the fermentation process.  By avoiding the refermentation process, Dom Perignon was able to double the Champagne supply he and his monk brothers produced, as well as popularize the Abbey.

A little information on Champagne: Champagne is stored underground, in what are known as 'Chalk Caves'.  For each Champagne house (say Moet & Chandon), there are up to 18 miles of underground caves, featuring a chalky earth that holds moisture and maintains a chilly environment (52 degrees), ideal for storing Champagne during fermentation.  The majority of Champagnes are made from a mix of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot  Meunier grapes.  The latter two grapes are red grapes, therefore the skins are removed immediately, so as not to color the golden tones known in Champagne. Dom Perignon, however, is made purely from the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.

ST. AVOLD, FRANCE

On our drive home, we decided to pull off the highway to pay our respects to the fallen WWII heroes laid to rest at Lorraine American Cemetery in St. Avold France, near the French/German border.  Upon visiting the cemetery, we learned that this is the largest WWII American cemetery in Europe....10,489 soldiers.  We walked the cemetery grounds for a few moments, Christer heading in one direction, me in another.  Within a few minutes, I stumbled upon a grave of a Paul J. Van Dusen.  Those of you who have known me for some time, know that my maiden name is Van Dusen...so to find a grave sharing my last name was quite poignant.  Couldn't believe there was an actual Van Dusen and couldn't believe I actually happened upon it.  St. Avold is well maintained, peaceful and both Christer and I commented that it is one of the nicest cemeteries we've experienced. A definite honor for those who lost their lives fighting for our freedom!



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